Cornwall Accommodation

THE TAMAR VALLEY

INTRODUCTION -

The Tamar Valley is the forgotten corner of Cornwall. Designated an ’Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’ in 1995 it is easy to see why. A timeless landscape of remote beauty, it is one of the country’s best kept secrets. Tucked into the South Eastern corner of Cornwall, along the ancient boundary that separates it from Devon, the Tamar Valley is a haven for wildlife and tourists alike. Virtually untouched by modern living it is a rare valley and water landscape with miles of stunning views and a unique wildlife resource. Follow the valley from the mouth of the estuary up through lush woodland and high sided valleys to the fringes of the windswept moorland at Bodmin. Along the way there is much to catch your eye, from trickling streams and pretty villages to winding lanes and fields of flowers.

Like much of Cornwall the landscape reflects the area’s heritage. Look out for evidence of the valley’s industrial past. Further back in history, notice the remains of prehistoric settlements in the Stone and Bronze age barrows at Kit Hill and Hingston Down. In contrast to the steep rugged scenery at Kit Hill, the lower Tamar is a market gardener’s paradise. Cherry and apple orchards flourish in abundance as well as fields of flowers in springtime.

The best way to visit the Tamar Valley is to leave the car behind! Forget driving and parking worries and let public transport take the strain. There are numerous paths and hikes through the valley. For a faster method of getting about, consider hiring a bike. Choose one of the many cycle routes; Lopwell Dam, Bere Peninsula or Middle Tamar routes for great views of contrasting countryside.

One of the most interesting ways to see the valley is by boat. Take the Tamar Ferry between Calstock Quay and Cotehele Quay and stop for a pub meal at the historic ’Ship Inn’. Or take one of the River Cruises down the route that the original steamers once took Queen Victoria’s and family in 1850! Nowadays a round trip from Plymouth to Calstock will take you four to five hours though shorter trips to Devonport Dockyard are available.

Section One

CAWSAND / KINGSAND / MOUNT EDGECUMBE / TORPOINT

Begin your exploration of the beautiful Tamar Valley at the mouth of the estuary. Here the twin villages of Cawsand and Kingsand are tucked into the landscape and make an ideal base for the discerning holiday maker. Once famous as the haunts of smugglers, these little villages have bags of charm and character and are frequent winners of the ‘Best Kept Village Award.’ Wander about the narrow winding streets and pause to admire the colour washed old cottages. There is ample parking and plenty of cottages to let as well as bed and breakfast and hotel facilities. A safe harbour for centuries, Cawsand Bay is the ideal place for swimming, windsurfing, water skiing, camping and caravanning. There are a number of good walks too, the coastal path takes you past Penlee point and Rame Head with its 11 th century Monk’s Chapel and breathtaking views out to the golden beaches of Whitsand Bay. Sea angling is popular here and you are likely to find Bass, Wrasse, Pollock or Mackerel at the end of your line, while in the skies above look out for Buzzards and Peregrines.

From traditional stone cottages take a journey into the lap of luxury at Mount Edgecumbe Country Park. Here you can explore 800 acres of glorious parkland that reaches out to 10 miles of Cornwall’s stunning coastline. The park and gardens are a paradise for horticultural enthusiasts. There are numerous tracks to follow that incorporate interesting plants and breathtaking views over to the Plymouth Sound. Pick up the Coastal Route which stats at Cremyll and, according to the Shell Guide, is probably the most beautiful in England.

After saying goodbye to Mount Edgecumbe head further up the estuary towards Plymouth and stop at Torpoint. The name derives from a nickname given by local industrial workers and means ‘prominent or rocky point’ in dialect. A small town though it is, Torpoint offers a number of good pubs and restaurants which make for a pleasant evening out. There are also the famous ‘self-propelled’ ferries which work on a system of chains along which they pull themselves. While in Torpoint it is a good idea to visit Antony House, the 18 th century home of the great Cornish family of Carew. The house is full of interesting facts about the family and area while the sloping gardens afford pleasing views of the Lynher River.

Section Two

SALTASH / ST GERMANS / CARGREEN

From Torpoint head north for the historic town of ‘Saltash’. Also known as ‘the gateway to Cornwall’, this small town is filled with interest and makes a convenient base from which to explore the area. You can get about easily, local trains connect to Exeter, Plymouth, Liskeard and the Cornish Riviera. Alternatively you can just as easily pop in for the day and experience some of the things Saltash has to offer. Originally a market town in the 12 th century, Saltash was founded at a point where an ancient highway crossed the Tamar estuary by way of a ferry. It became a developed port and because of its strategic position had a number of maritime interests and hosted many important events. The engineer-genius Isambard Kingdom Brunel chose Saltash as the site for a bridge, of unique design, to carry the railway in to Cornwall. The Royal Albert Bridge, Brunel's masterpiece completed in 1859, is undoubtedly the town's most famous feature. Also of interest is the cottage of Mary Newman, Sir Francis Drake’s wife.

Just down river from Saltash the village of St Germans is situated on the River Tiddy, part of the beautiful estuary of the Lynher. Originally the seat of the Bishop of Cornwall, it takes its name from the priory church of St Germanus, adjacent to the estate of the present Earl of St Germans. The focal point of the village is still the striking Norman Church, set in a hollow with two towers and an impressive doorway at its west front. The church itself warrants a lengthy visit, as do the 16 th century almhouses but the village itself is such a charming place, situated as it is on the banks of the river that you will find yourself wandering quite contentedly for some time, soaking up the atmosphere of tranquillity.

Further up the estuary is Cargreen. Visit in spring and admire the beautiful flower fields that create a stunning setting for this pleasant little village. There are a number of good pubs in the village, so a planned stop for lunch or dinner is a good idea. You can dine alongside the river and watch the world float by!

SECTION THREE

ST MELLION / CALLINGTON / CALSTOCK

The world famous golf course at St Mellions is worth a swing of the club for the view alone. Set amongst 450 acres of stunning countryside the club offers a 5 star golfing experience. Afterwards you can unwind in the heated pool before going for a meal at the Chimes Restaurant. St Mellions itself offers plenty of non golf related activities too. It has a number of facilities including pubs, shops and restaurants and its range of accommodation makes it a good place to stay for trips to nearby places of interest, such as Cotehele House or the Eden Project.

North West of St Mellions lies the ancient market town of Callington. Just 6 miles from the River Tamar the town’s development really came about in the 19 th century due to the mining boom in the surrounding areas and much of this heritage is still evident in the landscape. Though the mines are now long gone, the town is still booming with its main employment opportunities being connected with tourism and farming, not to mention the famous Ginsters Cornish pasties which are made there. Having arrived at Callington however the next thing to do is to leave it, and your car behind. A free town car park means that Callington is a good place from which to set out on foot. Bodmin Moor and The Tamar Valley are both in easy reach, as is Kit Hill.

On the other side of the valley from Callington lies Calstock. Here you can appreciate the market gardening past of the area in the spring orchards and fields of flowers. The village itself is made up of granite cottages scattered along the riverside all dominated by the enormous viaduct above.

SECTION FOUR

COTEHELE HOUSE / GUNNISLAKE / KIT HILL

You cannot come to this part of Cornwall without paying a visit to one of the least-altered medieval houses in the country, Cotehele House. Built between 1485 and 1627 it belonged to the Edgecumbe family for 6 centuries and is now owned by The National Trust. A place of remote beauty, you find it perched high above the wooden banks of the Tamar, the gardens below on many levels as they descend the steep valley. There you will discover pools, a dovecote and a working watermill. The garden is also of interest due to the mild climate in the area which produces many exotic and tender plants.  Look out for the daffodil meadow, the pretty flower borders, fine trees and shrubs that provide colour all year round.  From the gardens you can walk down to the quay where there is a tea room, art and craft gallery and museum, as well as the restored Tamar sailing barge ‘Shamrock‘. The house itself is altered so little that it does not even have electricity, so be advised to avoid dull, or cloudy days! Inside the house the intimate medieval rooms contain original furniture, armour and tapestries as well as impressive Tudor fireplaces. In addition there are three internal courtyards and a superb old kitchen.  The tower was added in 1620 and contains three impressive bedrooms, one of which  King Charles Ist is said to have stayed the in. While at Cotehele you’ll soon discover that it is more than just a medieval house with stunning gardens. Take a boat trip on the Tamar from Cotehele Quay and keep your senses alert for a paranormal activities including hazy figures, ethereal music and strange herbal scents!

From Cotehele travel north to Gunnislake. A charming village of narrow streets and interesting shops, it sprawls on the steep valley side, dominated by the Gunnislake New Bridge. Built in the early 16th century, it was the lowest bridging - point on the Tamar and one of the main routes of entry into Cornwall. The development of this village is primarily due to the dramatic explosion of industrial and mining activity in the mid - nineteenth century, a period when the Tamar Valley became the richest copper - mining centre in Europe. There is plenty to be seen here for those interested in industrial history and its archaeological remains as well as those just wanting a pleasant amble around a pretty little village.

SECTION FIVE

KIT HILL / STOKE CLIMSLAND / TAMAR LAKES

Kit Hill is the highest point of the Hingston Down ridge and the highest hill in East Cornwall. It is famous for its spectacular views and absorbing history. Visible for miles around Kit Hill is a dominating feature of the landscape and provides excellent views of Dartmoor, Bodmin Moor, the Tamar Valley and Plymouth. When you get to the top there are viewing tables to help you identify what you can see from this point 1000 feet above sea level. It has been an attraction for human activity for thousands of years and may have been of some religious or ceremonial significance in prehistoric times. Several Bronze Age Barrows and a Neolithic Long Barrow have been identified, forming part of a line of barrows along the ridge of Hingston Down. In the ninth century the battle of Hingston Down was fought on the lower slopes when the combined forces of the Cornish and the Danes fell against the invading Saxons, bringing an end to Cornish independence. In honour of this battle a folly was built in the 18 th century in imitation of a Saxon or Danish fort. Even today the hill is still used for ceremony, the Callington old Cornwall Society continues to use it as a site for the annual Midsummer’s Eve Bonfire. However the decline in Kit Hill’s use for industrial or agricultural activity meant that it has become a haven for wildlife. The slopes are dominated by gorse, heather, whortleberry and other grasses as well as an impressive population of insects, birds and reptiles. Look out for furry moth caterpillars, adders sunning themselves and Heathland birds, such as skylarks, tree pipits and stonechats. Keep your eye out too for frogs, toads and dragonflies in the old quarry pool. To explore Kit Hill you can’t do better than taking one of the several miles of footpaths or Horse Trails to fully appreciate the beauty of this unique place.

North of Kit Hill lies the green and pleasant landscape of hills around the village of Stoke Climsland. A thriving village set in beautiful countryside, it is nestled in the curve of a gently inclined basin, which rises to moorland and to the tops of steep, wooded, outward-looking slopes. At the centre of the parish, looking out at green pastures is the 12 th century church while the rest of the area is enriched by Tudor and Georgian farmsteads dotted about the countryside. The village also boasts a Post Office and General Store.

Coming to the end of a trip up the Tamar Valley, there is no better place to stop than at the Tamar Lakes. Situated not far from Bude in the far north of Cornwall, these two lakes offer a variety of activities from watersports to angling and walking to relaxing. At the Upper Lake a Watersports Centre offers facilities for sailing, windsurfing and canoeing so why not try your hand at one of these exciting sports? For refreshment the licensed tea-room offers a good variety of lunches and cakes for everyone to enjoy and are especially welcome after a day on the water. If watersports aren’t your thing then try the round the lake walk which takes about one hour. Information can be found about the walks in the visitor’s centre near the tea-room. At Lower Tamar many more footpaths can be found including one which links with the Bude Aquaduct Walk, there is also a bird hide and several picnic tables. Coarse anglers can enjoy their sport at this attractive lake with permits available on site. If you want to stay longer the peaceful campsite acts as an excellent base for touring Cornwall and North Devon and is open Easter - October.