Cornwall Accommodation

THE LIZARD AND FALMOUTH

INTRODUCTION

The Lizard Peninsular is Britain ’ s most southerly point on the mainland and is a combination of jagged cliff edges and gentle countryside. A land of contrasts it contains fishing coves and quiet quays as well as blankets of all year round colour. The Lizard is not named after some mythical dragon as you might imagine, one suggestion is that the name comes from the Cornish "lezou", or headland. Designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and as a site of special scientific interest, the peninsula has managed to remain unspoilt thanks to a good deal of it being owned by The National Trust.

You can enjoy the Lizard Peninsular on foot, the south west coastal path takes you around most of the Lizard. However with the sea on three sides and the Helford River to the north the Peninsula is almost an island so a good way to see it at its best is to take to the waters. However you visit, the lizard is the perfect place to get away from the madding crowds. Its scenery has inspired generations of artists, writers and photographers, so see what it can do for your creative palette.

For inspiration visit the charming scatterings of hamlets, such as Cadgwith and Coverack, and the inland village of St Keverne. The safe family beaches at Kennack Sands and Coverack will also provide a good day out.

SECTION ONE

FALMOUTH / GWEEK / HELFORD

Falmouth is south west Cornwall's premier resort and home to Cornwall's maritime heritage. The town is situated on the shoreline of the world's third largest natural harbour and is famous for its beaches and castle and infamous for its smugglers and pirates. The perfect place for swimming and sunbathing, and to relax on one of the resort’s four main beaches, Gyllyngvase, Castle, Swanpool and Maenporth. To get to know more about Falmouth’s heritage of pirates, smugglers and wreckers, head to the Cornwall Maritime Museum. Getting around in Falmouth couldn’t be easier with a hop-on-hop-off road train linking the town, beaches and castle from Easter to October. Or try one of the many pleasure boats and ferries which ride the local waters to St Mawes, Flushing, Smuggler's Cottage at Tolverne, Truro and the Helford Passage. Falmouth is a good place to pick up a holiday souvenir, with many craft and gift shops and vendors of all things nautical you’re bound to find something in this bustling town centre. Or head over to the Princess Pavilion theatre and tea-rooms, which are set among the subtropical Gyllyngdune Gardens by the beach. A great place to pick up bargains is at one of the antique fairs and flea markets held throughout the year. At lunchtime wander in to any of

the numerous pubs and restaurants that often specialise in local seafood and sit back and enjoy the view!

You can’t get away from the water at Falmouth and whether its sailing, diving or fishing there’s something for everyone in this world of water!

As you head down the coast from Falmouth, take in the once busy port of Gweek.

Situated at the head of the Helford River, now a peaceful little village, is the furthest navigable point on the tidal river. It was once a busy port into which all but the largest sailing ships could tie up but as the river gradually silted up due to the waste from the upriver mines, the last cargoes left Gweek's wharves in 1880. Today Gweek has a renowned local Inn serving award winning food, and is popular with tourists because of its charm and beauty. Aside from the Inn, Gweek also has a Seal sanctuary, where you can see the efforts being made to rehabilitate seals injured along the Cornish coast. The Sanctuary is a busy rescue centre, and also has resident Grey Seals, Common Seals, Californian and Patagonian Sea Lions, Goats, Ponies and Otters. The Sanctuary has Nursery pools, Convalescence, and Resident pools, and a specially designed Hospital. The hospital over the years has been extended to include isolation pools, as well as treatment and preparation areas. You can adopt a seal pup and get updates on its progress via the seal sanctuary. The Sanctuary is a great place to learn about these beautiful animals and spreads awareness about their plight on our coastlines.

Once an important port, the village of Helford lies east of Gweek along the Liazard‘s coastline. Today it strikes the visitor as a sleepy little place curled up on the banks of the River Helford. Trading ships once brought French rum, tobacco and lace from the continent and the duty was collected at the old custom house. During the Napoleonic Wars, pirates and free traders populated the reaches of the river. It was this that Daphne du Maurier’s romantic novel, Frenchman’s Creek, was based on. With the sea mist hanging over the still water the romance is still alive in this little village. The famous creek can be found by walking along a wooded track from the top of the village.

SECTION TWO

TRELOWARREN / ST KEVERNE / COVERACK

Run by the same family for 600 years, Trelowarren , south of Gweek, is one of Cornwall ’ s most historic estates. A beautiful Cornish manor house it is set in 1,000 acres of parkland, running down to the Helford River. Today it is well known for its ‘ green ’ projects. One of the ideas behind it being to balance conservation, private ownership and living history. Environmental architects have been employed to convert its buildings. Using rainwater harvesting systems and super insulation the family are hoping to gain a unique zero-C02 rating. There are CO² neutral emissions, organic paint has been used, and eco dishwashers and washing machines are all keeping the historical Trelowarren site safe and green for the future. The family has won several awards for its innovative environmental tourism projects.

The Vyyyan family has owned Trelowarren since 1427. Today Sir Ferrers Vyvyan is at the helm of the estate which today welcomes day visitors, campers and time-share holiday-makers. The grounds are 18 th century designed and there is plenty to explore, from Pleasure Grounds, a Mount, ha-ha’s, avenues and terraces.

Trelowarren is also home to the The Cornwall Crafts Association. It was formed in 1973 to support craftworkers living and working in the County.

Its aims are to encourage high standards of workmanship and design; to promote the interests of craftworkers wherever possible; and to provide a focus for craft activities and the exchange of ideas and information. There is plenty to see and do on the estate including, pottery and weaving, gardens and nurseries and a restaurant. There are also woodland walks, camping and caravanning. A mix of preserving the past and safeguarding the future makes Trelowarren a popular place for day visitors and those who choose the location as a holiday base.

Further down the coast, on the eastern most point of the Lizard is the picturesque village of St Keverne. Here you'll find whitewashed cottages, a beautiful church, two pubs and a handful of shops. St Keverne has had quite a turbulent past. Two Cornish rebellions, one in 1497, the other in 1547, began there. There's a memorial stone in the church to the village blacksmith Michael Joseph, leader of the first uprising. There’s also a shipwreck window; and outside in the churchyard, a stark memorial to the 106 lives lost when the liner Mohegan was wrecked in 1898.

Today you will find a more peaceful atmosphere and the perfect opportunity to relax while listening to the St Keverne Band, or the Male Voice Choir on summer evenings.

Or you could take a quiet stroll to Tregellast Barton just outside the village, where you can follow lakeside and woodland nature trails. For the kids (and grownups) there is the ‘Roskilly’s’ which is not to be missed. There you can watch the cows being milked, and taste the local cornish ice cream.

South of St Keverne is Coverack, a picture postcard village with clear waters, a sandy beach and a quaint harbour. This is a haven for windsurfers though it is equally popular with families. Make a trip to the Paris Hotel and marvel at the photographs of the great storm that in 1899 ran a cruise liner aground, its hard to believe that this sleepy little place could whip up such weather.

SECTION THREE

KENNACK SANDS / CADGWITH / LIZARD

Kennack Sands attracts huge numbers of surfers every year, but be warned that only competent surfers should apply! it ’ s a great place to visit nonetheless for the white sands and dramatic cliff faces. For surfers the big tidal range creates a super long low-tide beach, which holds waves up to 4-5ft. Facing south, it needs a big west or south swell to work. North to north-westerly winds are offshore.

For the non surfers there is an excellent walk. The coastpath takes you above the rocks at Caerverracks and you can climb up to Eastern Cliff. As you go look out for the white cube shaped Lloyds building on Bass Point near the Lizard Lighthouse. On the right are the finger-like rocks just off Carrick Lûz. As you descend notice the site of an ancient settlement and earthwork at Poldowrian Valley. Then as you climb up the eastern slope of the small valley look below at Spernic Cove. It may also be possible to see a small sea arch and caves. At the neck of Carrick Luz is an Iron Age Cliff Fort and small sandy beach nestling beneath the ramparts on the eastern side of Carrick Lûz is Lankidden

Cove.

Cadgwith, along the coast from Kennack sands, must be one of Cornwall's loveliest villages. It is brimming with pretty cottages made from rough lumps of serpentine and roofed with thatch, a relatively rare sight in Cornwall. Serpentine is a local rock that when polished or wet resembles the skin of a snake, The naturally protected cove is still home to a small fleet of crabbing boats which are winched up the shingle beach. In winter when the storms rage, watch the locals pushing the boats up the steep roads to the safety of the car park. Just to the south along the coastal path is the awesome Devil's Frying Pan. This is a 200' deep hole in the cliffs formed many years ago by the collapse of a sea cave. Part of the adventure of visiting Cadgwith is navigating the steep and narrow lanes into the village

At Lizard village, south of Cadgwith and on the point, the serpentine turners can be seen polishing and making objects from this unusual stone. The Lizard lighthouse is mainland Britain's most southerly lighthouse, first built in 1751; in the summer months it offers guided tours where you can visit the engine room and the top of the lighthouse.

SECTION FOUR

KYNANCE COVE / MULLION / LOE POOL / PORTHLEVEN

At low tide the warm golden sands of Kynance Cove can be a real sun trap, the perfect place to sprawl and read a book while the kids explore the rock pools and caves.

Here the rare wild asparagus, hairy greenweed and bloody cranesbill can be found.

Mullion is the largest settlement on the Lizard and is a busy little village boasting shops, inns, cafes and restaurants, craft shops and art galleries. A 15th century church can be found at the centre of the village and is renowned for its richly-carved oak bench-ends depicting biblical scenes, including that of Jonah and the Whale. From the village visit Mullion Cove, a short walk away. There was a lifeboat station there from 1867 -1909, and with good reason; in the six years up to 1873 there were nine wrecks under Mullion cliffs along a mile-and-a-half stretch of coastline.

Loe Pool is Cornwall's largest freshwater lake, separated from the sea by a great shingle bar called Loe Bar. Like Dozmary Pool on Bodmin Moor, it is reputed to be connected with King Arthur and the lake into which Excalibur was thrown. Another legend connected with the place is that of Jan Tregeagle. He is supposed to have been tripped by demons while engaged in one of his tasks. He dropped a sack full of sand and created LoeBar. Legends apart, there is plenty to see here, including many birds and mammals and notable species such as the otter. There are miles of footpaths including a circular route around the Pool.

Porthleven is the most southerly port in mainland Britain and an excellent base for exploring South West Cornwall. Porthleven's name is thought to come from the old Cornish porth (harbour) and leven (level or smooth), probably because the harbour was once a flat marshland on the banks of a stream flowing into the sea at a small cove. The stream still flows through the valley and divides the village into the two parishes Sithney to the east and Breage to the west. The quaint old harbour is full of yachts and fishing boats, while narrow streets climb the steep hillsides commanding spectacular views

There is a variety of accommodation and you'll find restaurants, pubs, galleries and gift shops as well as fishmongers and chandlers.
The town was once a centre for boat building, its long harbour wall protecting the port from the winter south-westerlies which rage across Mount's Bay. Much of the daily routine is still centred around the harbour, with houses and cottages vying each other for the best view. Boats continue to fish from here for crab, lobster and crayfish. As you wander about the harbour, notice buildings that stand as remnants of the village’s past, a time when the quayside really heaved with activity. Everywhere you look there are clues to the past. The Wreck and Rescue Centre began in 1893 as a china clay store. The ruined turret-like building was once a lime-kiln, built in 1814, to produce lime for the construction of the harbour and the building boom which followed. The two cannon either side of the harbour were once fired in anger at Napoleon's navy during the battle of Brest and come from the frigate HMS Anson, wrecked on Loe Bar in 1807 with the loss of 120 sailors.
Make a visit to the old lifeboat house, just round from the Ship Inn. Built in 1894 there was a lifeboat service in Porthleven from 1863 to 1929, and it ran 28 missions and saved 50 lives. The village continues to have strong links with the RNLI and each August there is a colourful Lifeboat Day. .

A few yards from the harbour you can soak up the sun from the beach or take the South West Coast Path east to the wild Lizard Peninsula or west to the spectacular cliff-edge tin mines of Rinsey. Come in the summer and you'll catch Porthleven on holiday, with quayside concerts by the town band, gig racing and the festival of St. Peter's Tide

SECTION FIVE

HELSTON / GODOLPHIN HOUSE

The bustling market town of Helston lies midway between Falmouth and Penzance. Ideally situated for exploring South West Cornwall, Helston has attractions for everyone. The town is a mixture of Georgian and Victorian architecture.
While in Helston, you cant miss a tipple at the Blue Anchor, a thatched building, originally a monks' rest house, which became a tavern in the 15th century. Possibly the oldest private brewery in the country, you can enjoy the local brew, ‘Spingo,’ brewed on the premises! Further up, you'll find one of the oldest buildings in Helston, the Angel Hotel, the former town house of the celebrated Godolphins who represented Helston in Parliament for many years.

Look out for craft and antique fairs at the Guildhall and pay a visit to the canon standing at the rear. It was taken from HMS Anson, wrecked at Lee Bar in 1807. The cannon stands on guard outside the Helston Folk Museum, housed in the old butter market, where you learn all about Helston's heritage.
Perhaps Helston's greatest claim to fame is the internationally renowned festival of the Flora Dance. Held every year on May 8 th, thousands of visitors fill the streets to enjoy the atmosphere from dawn to well into the night. The town is decked out with bluebells, gorse, laurel leaves and colourful flags. Dancing begins at 7.00 am, there's the mummers' play known as the Hal-an-Tow, at several venues throughout the town. Watch St George and St Michael slay the Dragon and the Devil, cheered on by a crowd dressed in Lincoln green and Elizabethan robes. The children of the town dance at 10.00 am, at midday there's the principal dance, with invited participants in top hats, tails and dress gowns; and a final dance at 5.00 pm. The dancers weave in and out of the shops, houses and gardens behind the Helston Band playing the famous Flora Dance tune. The origins of the dance are certainly pre-Christian and are connected with ancient spring festivals all over Europe. Nowadays its ancient intention of ushering in prosperous harvests goes hand in hand with the splash of colour all over the town, the joyous music and high spirits of all involved.

On the edge of the Lizard Peninsula is Godolphin House a granite-built Tudor and Stuart house. All that remains of the house now is only a part of the larger building that was the home of the Godolphin family until the 18 th century. The house contains interesting displays of horse drawn vehicles, reproduction maps, prints and documents along with arms and armour.

The house is furnished with some fine examples of old furniture and tapestries. Some of the pieces are original to the house, having been bought back by the present owner. The Entrance Hall features a splendid 16th century chimneypiece but the most exquisite features of the house are to be found in the Dining Room - with its linen-fold panelling and early 16th century carved beams. Most of the rooms have simple decoration, but the King's Room features an beautifully carved doorway - made in 1604 to commemorate the wedding of Sir William Godolphin to a daughter of the Sidney family.

There is an extensive range of farm buildings at Godolphin House, including the original Elizabethan stables. To the north and east sides of the house, recently discovered Remnants of the old formal gardens, which include raised walks and carp ponds, are currently undergoing restoration and clearance.

The house is known for its ghostly happenings. There was said to have been a lady in white who appeared and disappeared through a wall. When the workmen restoring the house knocked that same wall down they found a hidden door. Historians believe that the "Lady in White" is the shade of Margaret, wife of the First Earl of Godolphin, who died around September 1678. To this day there are people who have seen her emerge and then glide across the terrace. A ghostly funeral procession has also been seen wending its way from the house to the chapel.